It’s a provocative question but not a facetious one. The thought came to me while having lunch recently with an old friend (now in his eighties) who groused “that not enough Chablis today tastes like Chablis.” For him, a quality wine must always taste like what it is. This is a pretty pervasive notion, and…
All posts in March 2019
Dirt’s Day in the Sun What's behind our obsession with vineyard soils?
There’s plenty of disagreement about what’s mainly responsible for the expression of individual character in wine, but right now, if you had to bet, you’d be wise to put your money on soils because that’s where the talk is. In the soil-as-primary-determinant-of-wine-character theory it’s the mineral content and the organization of dirt and rock in…