Champagne Confidential

Dear Publisher, Excuse the impersonal greeting, but I am sending this along to quite a few of you bow-tied literary types and I really can’t be bothered looking up all your names, can I?  As someone already deep into the first draft of a blockbuster tell-all, I think all that research would be rather a…

Lessons from the Haberdashery

Some of the chief pleasures wine affords derive from its effects on the special, hyper-sensitive tissue that lines the inside of our mouths — grasping the lips, tongue and palate in a palpable, sensuous embrace. The food science word for this is mouthfeel, a term I find unbearably awkward and clinical. A better choice is texture,…

Certifiably Nouveau Riche

Beg pardon. We don’t mean that kind of nouveau riche. Ambitious arrivistes, pretentious parvenus, up-from-nowhere nabobs are the furthest things from our minds this time of year. Rather, we bring our progressive trifocals to bear on our beloved Beaujolais shelf, where we eagerly await and then rejoice to witness the arrival of France’s celebrated first responders: Beaujolais Nouveau, or, occasionally, Primeur. It’s all the same, you see.…

I’ll Have What I’m Having

When Harry Met Sally and the now famous line “I’ll have what she’s having” was just getting cultural traction, the Internet was still some nerdy DARPA project hardy anyone knew about. Trillions of Web searches later, we’ve all learned the usefulness of the ‘more like this’ query. Your job is to find just one thing that exactly hits the spot. Once you’ve…

Toga v. Trousers: the Rematch

It may just be my historical imagination run amok (as it tends to do), but I see traces of the momentous struggle between ancient Romans and their German antagonists still drawing breath in the low-level but persistent rivalry between wine drinkers and beer lovers. The crudely binary nature of this contest is daily re-enacted and…

Wine Secular and Spiritual

The tiny  Italian wine appellation of Boca shares some important features with elite neighbors a hundred kilometers or so to the south, Barolo and Barbaresco.  Both employ Nebbiolo, a noble and historic varietal that has been important in the Piedmont since Roman times. However, the law requires wines bearing the Boca DOC to include a…

Still Over a Barrel

I’ve written elsewhere about the age-old romance between the wine vine and trees, and of the numerous ways in which the two have interacted over the centuries. It’s understandable that this symbiosis goes mostly unnoticed today since vines are no longer trellised on stately elms, as was once common. But trees and vines are still a team. Many wines benefit…

Differences of Degree

An American’s first wine encounter while in Europe can elicit surprise. It’s not that Europeans keep the best for themselves — a strangely persistent canard.  Rather, it’s the temperature at which wine is served.  Whites abroad are typically served a little warmer and reds consistently cooler than Americans are used to. Is this just a…