The Order of Pour

Why is a set of wines arranged in a particular order for tasting purposes referred to as a flight? Even the venerable Oxford English Dictionary doesn’t seem to know. Its editors don’t give an example of the word used in this way. In wondering about the use of the term in this context, it’s natural…

This Way or That?

In my mind, he wine experience is readily categorized into three distinct areas of operations. And, while two of these, the making of wine and its imbibing, draw the bulk of the attention, the area lying chronologically between them — activities connected with the keeping, serving or polite consumption of wine — I find frequently neglected. What constitutes…

Wrongful Conviction

Shall we call them microflora or microfauna?  That depends on whether you categorize them among the plants or the animals. And since the biologists don’t seem to be able to give an unambiguous answer, who are we to presume to know?  All we can say for sure is that absent the vast, unseen and unremunerated…

Maigret and the Pet Nats

The great — perhaps greatest of all — French actor Jean Gabin (above) is one of many to have played Georges Simenon’s beloved Paris police inspector Jules Maigret on the big screen, and is, for us, the only one to have truly inhabited the character. One of Gabin’s more indelible, though oft overlooked, performances is…

Bye-bye to the Binge

How far back containers go in pre-history is impossible to say, though no doubt it’s very far indeed. Those early human groups who traveled in small, mobile bands across the landscape are known as hunter-gatherers, after all, and what is gathered must be carried. We can guess that woven baskets were primeval; and that the…

The Fog of Wine

In movies of a certain kind (think  The Third Man, Port of Shadows,  Brief Encounter) fog plays a prominent role.  Its presence evokes mystery, doubt, and a vague anxiety  – all lovely things when you’re longing to sink into something entertainingly noirish. Wine and fog have some associations, too. 

There’s the noble grape of Barolo,…

Pray, Mr. Bacchus

The impending (or perhaps only threatened) 100% tariffs on some European luxury goods has the wine industry in a tizzy – as well it might. As Jenny Lefcourt, an importer of natural wines outlined in a recent New York Times letter to the editor, the industry has a deep reach into American business and the…