The pleasures of the house pour

The benefits of preparation are pretty well-established by now, wouldn’t you say?  It’s why you read all the directions before assembling your IKEA bookshelf, and why you do a mise en place (peel, chop, slice and measure all ingredients) before you begin to cook.  Take a similarly thoughtful approach to buying wine in the new…

What’s hot in the world of wine?

In 2004, independent filmmaker and ex-sommelier Jonathan Nossiter administered a royal skewering to some of Big Wine’s biggest wigs with his quirky, accusatory documentary Mondovino.  In one of the film’s more memorable scenes, Michael Mondavi (son of the late Robert Mondavi) shares his dream of one day making wine on the moon. With a space program now…

Yeast song

On Monday November 4th mobile-radio.net set up seven microphones in the Mosel Valley cellar of Rudolf and Rita Trossen to capture the sounds of the freshly-pressed 2013 vintage in the process of turning itself into wine.  The sounds were broadcast live for 17 hours over several Internet radio sites. You can listen to the little…

Go froth and multiply

The Boston Globe Magazine recently published a story with my byline on sparkling wines for the holidays.  I had fun putting it together and editor Anne Nelson made a lovely two page spread of it,  but it left me a tiny bit unfulfilled.  The assignment — recommend 10 bubblies at a variety of price points worth…

Why wine, anyway?

There’s something out there called the Biomolecular Archaeology Laboratory. It’s run by the University of Pennsylvania Museum and one of the things that keeps its inmates occupied is the examination of some of the oldest containers known for signs they once may have held alcoholic beverages.The idea is to determine when and where controlled fermentations were…

Whose grandfather wins?

OLIVIER COUSIN FARMS 12 hectares (around 30 acres) and makes about 3000 cases of wine annually from gamay, chardonnay, cabernet franc, grolleau, and chenin blanc in the Layon Valley in the central Loire. His approach at Domaine Cousin-Leduc is self-consciously naturalist.  He works his vineyards with the draft horses you see above (hear him explain why in this…