The Style Issue

From time to time, winemakers will drop by our cellar to present and talk up their wines  We love having an in-person opportunity to ask all kinds of questions about how and why they do things as they do. Of particular interest to us is how a particular wine gets to be the way it…

Moving Pictures

Millions of wine drinkers rely on tasting notes provided by celebrity critics to direct their wine-buying. I’m not going to argue the advisability of such practice except to note that one of the shortcomings of these reports is the way they actually play out. In a venue where as many as a hundred wines await…

Call Me Counoise

Is this seat taken? No? How lucky for me! Mind if I plop down? Chances are that we’ve met before, but I wouldn’t be at all surprised or offended if my face (if one can call it a face) isn’t familiar. It would have been over another glass of wine; a Côtes du Rhône, likely…

Prayer into Wine

A vigorous world trade in wine had existed for perhaps a thousand years when the western Roman Empire collapsed and cities, key hubs of both mercantile organization and of customers keen for the product, fell into decline and decay. Late classical civilization didn’t disappear utterly, but was dealt a severe blow. As a new order…

A Visit to the Next Square

We’re not talking about Ball, Teale, Davis or Inman squares here (as you Cambervillians may be thinking). No, this is about conceptual squares and how what we’re calling Next Square Thinking can help you be a savvier, more adventurous wine consumer. I say adventurous, but one of the nice things about NST (as I’ll refer…

Topsy, Meet Turvy

The people who work hard everyday to present a positive image of wine and wine culture like to emphasize wine’s ancient lineage and unbroken continuity. The simple process of harvesting grapes and fermenting them into something flush with gastronomic, mood-enhancing and social lubrication skills has been familiar to, and appreciated by, who-knows-how-many generations of grateful…

Should We Be Talking About Continuity?

”A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds” Ralph Waldo Emerson (that’s the old troublemaker himself, above) memorably opined. But in the world of commerce, consistency is pretty much everything — the very hallmark of the branded product.  Many perfectly reputable wine estates aim at achieving it. Historically, the wine world’s most accomplished practitioners…

In Case You Mist It

I’ve written before in this space about what I like to call the fog of wine — that state we all get into from time to time; feeling lost in a cumulus of appellations, varietals, scores, ratings, pairings and terminology that, like a true fog, seems determined to swallow us up and keep us from seeing what’s…

Critical Faculties

When I became a wine enthusiast, the standards for fine wine were set in just three places: Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Champagne. There wasn’t much French wine from other regions, or even much Italian wine, available in Boston well into the 1970’s. This kind of entrenched loyalty to a narrow definition of quality may have many…