THE POLITICAL AND MILITARY conflicts between the Roman Empire and its German antagonists lasted hundreds of years, concluding, as we’ve been told, with the germanification of the Western empire. But did it? One could easily argue that in overrunning the Latin West, Germans were eventually colonized by Roman culture with its literacy, urbanity, and money…
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What a crust of (exceptional) bread can teach about wine
In addition to putting us in the path of tropical storm Irene, a recent visit to southwestern Vermont put us back in the neighborhood of artisan bread baker Doug Rountree. We profiled Doug, left, in a December 2010 story in the Globe’s Food pages. To say the guy makes wonderful old timey bread doesn’t begin to…
Bucket List
No, not that bucket list. We’re talking about the list of red wines we prefer to drink only after they’ve had a good long sit in an ice bucket – enough to bring the temperature down to something distinctly chilly. If you know something of the pleasures of young, light-bodied red wines sipped cool, it’s likely…
A lesson in winemaking . . . straight from the espresso bar
Giorgio Milos is master barista for the high-end Italian coffee company illycafe of Trieste and maintains a blog at the Atlantic. In his first post there last May, he criticized American baristi for not knowing their business; in particular, he took them to task for not knowing how much coffee to use when making espresso.…
Not too proud to keg
This is (part of) the set up for the by-the-glass wine program at chef Michael Leviton’s spanking new spot, Area Four, on Main St. between Kendall and Central in Cambridge. Except for the couple of sparklers on offer, all the wines here come out of stainless steel kegs (tops with their fittings are just visible…
Something racy this way comes
In a column to appear in next Wednesday’s Food pages, we’ll be highlighting a category we’re calling extreme chardonnay. The common thread is the crisp, dry fruit, shimmering acidity, and mineral interest higher latitude chardonnay offers. We’ve been tasting a number of French wines that fill the bill. Two surprises: the number of wines from the…
More on kegs
A lengthy interview yesterday with Dennis Gilligan who manages the elite estates portfolio at Massachusetts distributor United Liquors. Gilligan was tapped (sorry) by restaurateur Dave Dubois to get a keg program going at The Citizen Public House & Oyster Bar in Boston’s Fenway neighborhood and knows the logistics of kegs as well as anyone I’ve…
Napa Confidential Book review
The California Wine Experience is a trademark of the Wine Spectator Scholarship Foundation and so presumably not available to an author as a book title. Rather a shame that, because the phrase would have made an excellent alternative title for David Darlington’s new effort just published as “An Ideal Wine: One Generation’s Pursuit of Perfection…
Local man attacked by terroiristes
“Fine wine wine on a small scale” is how Kip Kumler (left) owner/winemaker at Turtle Creek Winery in Lincoln, Massachusetts describes his operation. The 900 cases produced there certainly fit the ‘small scale’ description. And anyone who has tasted some of Kip’s better efforts knows that the ‘fine wine’ part is also completely legit. The…
Island Creek Oyster Bar’s Rusty Whites
A series of conversations issuing from our post last week on whether oxidation should be routinely classified as a wine fault resulted in an invitation from Kenmore Square’s Island Creek Oyster Bar to drop by and taste what they refer to as their ‘rusty whites.’ Seven wines on offer here are made in a self-consciously…
Robert M. Parker, Jr. to be replaced by clueless Chinese billionaire
Yes, it could be one of those double-take inducing headlines from the Onion, but then it wouldn’t be true and Jane Anson says it is. Anson is a Bordeaux-based wine and travel writer who blogs about the world’s most interesting wine region at newbordeaux.com. Her site also offers essay-length treatments of subjects no one takes…
Well, we smelled it . . . and we liked it
Mary Orlin (aka The Wine Fashionista), had a little tutorial on the Huffington Post yesterday entitled “The six aromas you don’t want to smell in your wine.”. According to the author, the post had its origin in a course T.W.F. took at the Culinary Institute of America called “The sensory analysis of wine,” where students…