Why is a set of wines arranged in a particular order for tasting purposes referred to as a flight? Even the venerable Oxford English Dictionary doesn’t seem to know – its editors don’t give an example of the word used in this way. But we might be going in the right direction if instead of trying to tease out an etymology connected to birds, arrows or aircraft we think of an array that represents a kind of ascent, as in a flight of stairs.
A proper flight of wine is one that’s arranged with a view to how the impression made by one affects the perception of what comes before and after. Thus, one can be said to “ascend” from (for example) white to red, lighter to richer, simpler to more complex. That’s the conventional wisdom anyway. In practice it can take a bit of experimenting to hit on a sequence that results in each wine in the flight being in a position to shine.
Does your Wine Corner always get it right first time? Uh, no. But we stick with it until we do.
This week in the wine corner . . .
THURSDAY JULY 19 3-6 PM. FLIGHTS OF FANCY
2016 Marangona Lugana, $21.95
2017 Domaine Richou “Chauvigne” Blanc, $19.95
2015 Costaripa “Mazane” Garda, $19.95
FRIDAY JULY 20 3-6PM. FRESH FACES
If there’s a downside to the mad affairs we carry on with wines from small production/family estates, it’s the frequency with which too-quickly exhausted supplies leave us with that seduced and abandoned feeling. How do we deal with the heartbreak? By promptly going in search of fresh romance, of course. Yes, we’ve been sipping around again — wouldn’t you like to know with whom?
2017 Domaine Céline & Frédéric Gueguen, Chablis, $22.95
2014 Saint Jean de Bébian, Coteaux du Languedoc Blanc, $25.95
2016 Domaine de Piaugier, Sablet $17.95