The few weeks sandwiched between yuletide and the onset of Lent in February may well have been the only time a medieval European could be reasonably sure of enjoying a glass of fresh, sound wine. Wine merchants raced to get the current vintage safely in barrel and on the water to their various markets while it was still in fine twig. If the port was Bordeaux and the destination London, it was especially important that the new wine arrive in time for Christmas, the most festive (and apparently thirstiest) time of the year. This young, light-bodied and fragile red wine was known to the English as claret, a corruption of the French clairet, in reference to its pale color.
The quality and coloration of the wine have changed over the centuries, but it’s hard to overstate the importance of red Bordeaux to the British experience at table. For centuries it was absolutely ubiquitous. And, while the top estates are now out of the reach of all but the 1%, it was just a few decades ago that first growths could be had for the equivalent of about $4 a bottle. Every schoolmaster, barrister and vicar in the sceptered isle could could afford to enjoy it, and did.
For generations, when John Bull called for red wine he expected – he meant – claret. And while the Australians and the Chileans have loosened Bordeaux’s hold on British affections, no one in Old Blighty, be she Whig or Tory, really believes that on a special occasion anything but good old-fashioned claret will do.
Here in the wine corner, we think it’s high time claret got another look. We love the savory, dark fruit, nappy texture and genial proportions that are its hallmarks. As generations of Brits know, it’s a perfect accompaniment to the season’s glamorous roasts and chops, as well as farm-raised birds of all sorts. Game, too. So, join us in the wine corner Wednesday and Thursday this week and sip the wine dear to Chaucer, Gladstone, Bertie Wooster and the good family Fezziwig.
It’s still a long way to Tipperary, but Christmas is just around the corner.
-Stephen Meuse
This week in the wine corner . . .
WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 19 3-6 PM
2016 Les Têtes “Au Suivant” Bordeaux Superieur, $18.95 #pittspotation
2016 Château Le Puy, “Duc des Nauves” Côtes de Bordeaux, $26.95 #dickensdrink
2016 Closeries des Moussis Haut Medoc, $39.95 #chaucerssauce
THURSDAY, DECEMBER 20 3-6 PM
2015 Château Robin, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux, $19.95 #wellingtonswhistlewetter
2011 Château Gaudin, Pauillac, $45.95 #trollopestipple
2014 Château Meyney, Saint-Estephe, $49.95 #siranthonyseden