May I Have Your Autograph?

  The signature on a document, work of art or other created thing is a mark of origination: a sign that associates the object in some definitive way with the individual responsible for its content, or, more fundamentally, its existence. Although it’s common for a signature to take the form of an autograph — that’s…

The Red and White of It

Red and white might as well be the north and south poles of wine, reliably serving as stable orientation hubs on the vast and often confusing surface of planet Vino. Wine shops, wine lists and wine books all tend to organize themselves around these binary reference stations. So pervasive is the white/red divide that we…

Corky, or Just Quirky?

The most common actionable fault in wine, by far, is what’s known as cork taint: A condition that announces its presence with an off-putting whiff of wet basement, soggy cardboard, mold, or vague but insistent mustiness. Less common (but not exactly rare) is a bottle that gives the impression that someone has poured out some…

In Love with Love . . . and Wine

“Casanova’s Europe” reveals a refined and visually seductive culture on the cusp of modernity—one characterized by pleasure seeking, movement across boundaries, and self-invention. Casanova himself inhabited many roles—entrepreneur, social climber, spy, author, and translator of the Iliad. But he was also a cheat and a libertine.” So read the online tease for an MFA’s exhibition…

Make Mine Brustianu

As a child, your correspondent loved television, cars and the newspaper. He grew up with three outlets for TV programming, a trio of automakers, and a daily Boston Globe. How very quaint and meager this all seems now. No amount of nostalgia can induce me to want to return to the limited horizons of those days. The…

Austerity Measures

It was in the midst of the hangover resulting from the 2008 Greek debt crisis, and I was packing up a case of wine for a customer when I noticed I had stowed an Assyrtiko from the Greek island of Santorini adjacent to a Riesling from Germany’s Mosel region.  I quickly thought better of it…

Champagne Confidential

Dear Publisher, Excuse the impersonal greeting, but I am sending this along to quite a few of you bow-tied literary types and I really can’t be bothered looking up all your names, can I?  As someone already deep into the first draft of a blockbuster tell-all, I think all that research would be rather a…

Lessons from the Haberdashery

Some of the chief pleasures wine affords derive from its effects on the special, hyper-sensitive tissue that lines the inside of our mouths — grasping the lips, tongue and palate in a palpable, sensuous embrace. The food science word for this is mouthfeel, a term I find unbearably awkward and clinical. A better choice is texture,…